First part of
Chapter 1
Idols, gods
and devils
Even if you
don't see them, they are there.
Since you
arrive in Chontales, they look at you. Most of the stone idols are very well
hidden among a multitude of blocks scattered along the mountain range.
They are
innumerable. No one knows how many are still standing up through the rough
surface of the mountains.
However, if
you want to see them, you must go to Juigalpa.
Juigalpa is
the capital of the department of Chontales in the Republic of Nicaragua. It is
a population of some tens of thousands of inhabitants located at the foot of
the mountain range of the Amerrique mountain range. It was founded about three
centuries ago and since then it has been transformed into the main commercial
center of the mountainous country of Chontales. Although it is a relatively
small city, it is a very busy place, with people transporting agricultural
products or animals from the nearby fifths and ranches, or from people coming
from more distant cities, such as Matagalpa, Granada and even the capital of
the country, the metropolitan city of Managua.
Gregorio
Aguilar
Gregorio
Aguilar was a Chontaleño and knew very well where to find the stone idols. He
discovered his existence in the mountains during his youth.
Since then
he dedicated much of his life to collect them and install them in a small museum
that managed to
build with
great effort in the heart of the city. Gregorio traveled through the Sierra
with his high school students and some colleagues, and for a little over a
decade he managed to find many unique objects, including about fifty stone statues
.
Some years
later, on one of his usual trips, when Aguilar was carrying a large idol that
had been found a while ago, an accident occurred.
According
to some witnesses, Gregorio lost control of his vehicle, it overturned, and the
stone idol fell on him. He died instantly.
That day,
the city of Juigalpa, which was preparing for a big party, dressed in mourning.
Since then, the name of Gregorio Aguilar is pronounced by the juigalpeños with
the deepest respect.
Thirty
years later, the Juigalpa Museum, baptized Gregorio Aguilar, has been
transformed into a growing tourist attraction and stone idols are a symbol of
the city. However, very little is known of the women and men of flesh and blood
that sculpted the stone figures, of the ancient town that accompanies us, in
some way, when we go through the anfractuosities of the mountains.
Words, gods
and devils
How was it
possible? In a few years, just a few decades, numerous peoples and ancient
cultures were buried by an avalanche difficult to understand.
From the
lands of the albatross, in the southern reaches, to the evergreen rainforests,
with their meandering rivers; from the steep peaks, where the condor nests and
the snow remains embedded in the gloomy walls of the hills; to the shores of
palms and crabs, the American world seemed paralyzed against the advance of
those armored and aggressive men. They brought fierce dogs, horses, iron and
guns. They were thirsty for gold and power. They seemed not to know mercy. They
came without women. They arrived embarked on strange ships of ropes, wood and
canvases, they spoke an incomprehensible language, they raised curious banners
and everywhere they nailed their crosses to take possession of territories and
people.
They did
not ask for the native names of the land. When asked they were not understood. When
they were answered they did not understand. Deep down they didn't care about
ancestral names. They replaced them with their own whenever they could. And so
it was.
A world of
places renamed with foreign sounds.
Identities
lost, taken away, overwhelmed.
We do not
know if there was a denomination for the entire continent. A name that could
identify us from south to north, from east to west, up and down, from the seas
to the desert. Today, we are still looking for him: Abya Yala, Tortuga Island,
the home of Pachamama, America. Perhaps that designation we seek has never
existed. We do not know. (to be
continued)
(a) Chapter 1, Misterios of America, D.Antón, Piriguazú
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